What’s in the glass tonight September 5th – Chardonnay


Te Mata Elston 2013

From the Cellar: Te Mata Estate Elston Chardonnay 2013 – $$$

From the great Hawkes Bay vintage. 14% alc. Bright gold colour.

Perfumed. Scents of butterscotch, apricots, citrus fruit, spice, hints of menthol and peppermint, honey and white roses.

Warm and rich attack, with a smooth mouthfeel through the middle. Great balance between acid and secondary fruit. Flavours of orange and orange peel oil. Long finish, crunchy with it; lively and mouthwatering.

A fine and complex wine, sophisticated, Burgundian. I really wish i had another bottle somewhere.

Outstanding 95 Points

Advertisements

Te Mata Estate Coleraine Library Tasting 1982 – 2015


Te Mata Coleraine 1

New Zealand’s greatest and most famous red wine?

This is the opinion of a few notable palates of the New Zealand wine scene, admittedly encouraged by the superb marketing efforts of the folks behind the winery itself, and this opinion is also shared by several overseas leading palates, namely Jamie Goode and Steven Spurrier.

I am quite partial to the wine myself, though my own palate can best be described as naïve. I was introduced to the ‘00 at a tasting of Te Mata wines back in ‘10, and was I entranced by its quality. I didn’t know a NZ wine would age so well!  Actually, until that time, I had never thought of keeping a New Zealand wine any longer than the thirty minutes it took to get it home from the bottlestore. But life is learning, isn’t it?

Now, however, I am the  proud owner of several vintages of Coleraine, all sleeping it off down in the Pool Room under the watchful gaze of kellarmausefanger Mimi until they hit the Witching Hour of ten years of age. The first cab off the rank will be the 2009. My cellar’s pride and joy is a magnum of Coleraine 2013 (ignoring its admitted rival, 750mls of Stonyridge Larose 2005. Plus a bunch of Rieslings. I could go on).

Geoff Kelly, an aficionado of aged wines, previously a wine judge, and one of the resident wine experts at Regional Wines and Spirits, organised this hugely important look at twelve of the best vintages of this great wine since its inception in 1982. There have been 31 vintages to date, with the 1992 and 1993 not being made due to the localised cool weather influenced by the Pinatubo volcanic eruption in Indonesia, and a later vintage (2011?) which was beset by rain. A large number of bottles had been collected over the years by the late founder of Regional Wines, Grant Jones, and Geoff contributed others to fill the holes. He consulted with Peter Cowley, Te Mata’s longtime winemaker, about what he thought the finest vintages were, and thus assembled a selection for tasting over two nights.

I attended the second helping.

Geoff provided an excellent set of introductory notes, which can be read via the link below, with his carefully considered reviews of the wines themselves. Spoiler alert!

http://www.geoffkellywinereviews.co.nz/index.php?ArticleID=284

Raymond Chan, another local wine reviewer and judge, also ex RW, and an expert whose writings I admire, and also a long-time fan of Coleraine, he attended the first sitting also. And his informative notes are below. Another spoiler alert!

http://www.raymondchanwinereviews.co.nz/blog/te-mata-coleraine-2015-1982

My good friend GN was in attendance as well, as was a couple of MS members; cracking palates all, plus me, ha! But I’m still at the Bluffing Stage of public winetasting. Again, life is learning, isn’t it?

au vins:

1982 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay

1983 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay

1989 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay

1991 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay

1995 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay

1998 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay

2002 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay

2005 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay

2007 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay

2009 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay

2013 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay

2015 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay

Interestingly, Te Mata Estate Coleraine Hawkes Bay 1998 was named a ‘Wine Legend’ in the August Issue of UK’s wine magazine Decanter, placing it amongst the greatest wines of all time. The only New Zealand wine to receive the title to date, Decanter’s profile situates Te Mata Estate’s flagship Coleraine beside other ‘Wine Legends’ at more than ten times its price. Hmm. I take this magazine, surface mail, and haven’t seen this issue yet. It will be interesting to sup that one, then.

Time to sniff and slurp. I won’t write up all twelve wines (I leave that weighty task to Geoff and Raymond), but will rather report on my highlights. The wines were served non-blind, in age order youngest to oldest, as 30ml pours.

Te Mata Coleraine 2

The bouquet, as you would expect, showed evolution as the years progressed. Bright primary fruits to start with the later vintages, tending through secondary characters (cedar etc) in the 2000s, then landing on tertiary notes (tobacco ash etc)  as the decades weighed in from the 90s and back. Colour tended bright deep pink carmine in the young wines, through to darker hues, and tending brick for the oldies.

2015 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay – $140! OMFG – This was a great start to the tasting. If I can be presumptuous, the producers are making better wine the more goes they have at doing so, and this makes sense. The vines are getting older. And thus the ‘15 is winner in the making. Bright carmine colour. Sweet red and dark fruits on the nose. Sensitive. Breathy. Fresh fruit flavours. Fresh acidity. Great intensity and length. Bracing. Plush and lush, plumpness and  balance. Three ticks.

2013 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay – I have this in the Pool Room. It was a Lauded Vintage in the Bay. Bright carmine colour. More volatile than the ’15. A hint of spirit marker. Dark fruit. An impression of restrained power. There was power and crunch in the in the mouth also. Dense and packed with flavour. Some spice. Gorgeous and concentrated, fine, no oak showing. Fabulous. Three ticks.

2009 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay – Notable for the cassis showing, vanilla, and huge fruit profile. Hot on exit.

2007 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay – I noted here floral, lifted, and tension. Baking spice.  Elusive violets. Elegant, long and lean of finish. A special wine.

2005 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay – Dark carmine, tending brick. A packed nose. Delightful. Cedar, chalk, dusty , and cassis. Good fruit on palate. A rich feel of the wine in my mouth. I saw neatness and harmony and symmetry. Long. Three ticks for this.

1995 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay – Dark carmine, tending brick. Dry and evolved, a light and leafy bouquet. Gorgeous fruit flavours again. Poised. I noted sweetness and freshness, length and persistence. A gorgeous wine. Three ticks for this too.

1991 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay – Dark carmine, tending brick. Evolved, with aromas of roses, spice, violets, cassis, cedar and blackcurrant jam. A lot going on here. Delicious, involving and mouthcoating. Someone called this a mature Claret. Drying a little. Harmonious. Three ticks again!

1982 Te Mata Coleraine, Hawkes Bay – Dark carmine, tending brick. Most evolved, but still holding up with freshness and intensity of fruit belieing its age. An amazing 35YO New Zealand wine, and my Wine Of The Night because of this (beating out the ’91, ’05 and ’13).

My takeaway from this tasting had to be the pleasure in seeing how the bouquet evolved through the years. And how the wine colour changed. It was also interesting to see how the later vintages showed improvements that I can only put down to greater vine age and better vineyard/winery practice which has evolved over the years. Te Mata are making better Coleraines now than they did in the past, in my opinion.

This was a masterclass. Something you get vanishingly rarely with NZ wines. And this may well be the last public tasting of this breadth of Coleraines, until the winery itself opens its cellar at the next significant anniversary. Thanks Geoff, and thanks also to the late Grant Jones.

 

What’s in the glass tonight July 16th – Chardonnay


Te Mata Chardonnay 2016

Te Mata Estate Chardonnay Hawkes Bay 2016  – $$

13.5% alc. Pale gold colour.

Light and citrusy nose. Sweet. Hints of apple, white peach

Sweet entry, with medium fruit weight through the middle palate. Finely textured also, with a refreshing line of acid throughout, extending  to a long finish.

This wine can be available for as little as $18 a bottle, so great value for it.

Recommended 88 points

Hawkes Bay Winery Visits


esk-2

The Terraces, Esk Valley, Hawkes Bay

Coming back from our Lake Waikaraemoana tramping trip, and passing through Hawkes Bay, I was super-fortunate to have the time and space to visit a number of my very favourite NZ wine producers with my lovely L.

Esk Valley

Esk Valley was first up. Esk Valley is situated beside the coast at Bay View north of Napier. Behind the winery were the famous Terraces, facing north and the sea, first terraced and planted by owner Robert Bird with hybrid wines in the 1940s. Low yields and high production costs saw those pulled out and the hillside planted in pines.

Pine tree cones make poor wine so when George Fistonich of Villa Maria bought the property in 1989, the pines were in turn pulled out, and plantings of cabernets, merlot and malbec vines were dug in. Cabernet Savignon proved hard to ripen consistently at this cool coastal location, so those vines were pulled out in the mid-90’s and replaced with more Merlot and Malbec vines.

esk-1

L and I tasted through a range of their standard wines – Savvy, Chardy, Rose, Pinot Gris, Syrah – then we paid a $10 fee to try the Terraces 2014 blend in a separate room. This was presaged by tastings of the standard 2015 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Malbec blend (a go-to red of mine), then the $60 Winemakers Reserve of the same blend (delicious, complex, aromatic). The Terraces was powerful and refined, with a wonderful aroma. Enough for me to invest in a bottle.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

elephant-1

Eponymous elephant at Elephant Hill

Elephant Hill

A lot of money has been spent establishing Elephant Hill, starting with situating a very impressive bronze elephant before a huge copper-clad winery. The tasting room is one of NZ’s finest, with a high-cuisine kitchen attached, and a sunny terrace out from.

elephant-2

We tasted through their wines, before settling down to a nice Chardonnay and Gris with a cheese platter. And I bought a bottle of their top rated syrah, the Airavata from 2013.

elephant-hill-syrah-2015

I like their wine so much, that later in town I had another glass of their delicious standard Syrah at the stylish café Bistronomy while L had her feet pedicured after the big hike…

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


te-mata-1

Buck House, Te Mata Estate

Te Mata Estate

The next day we went out for a bike ride, intending to head from Clive up to the top of Te Mata Peak. We were running a bit short of time, and were waylaid by the tasting room at Te Mata Estate instead.

te-mata-2

I didn’t need much persuading: anyone who reads my blog knows I really rate these guys work. We tried the latest Cape Crest Sauvignon Blanc, Elston Chardonnay, Gamay Noir, Bullnose Syrah, and Awatea red blend. We couldn’t carry anything on our bikes, so we left with our bank accounts intact.

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Clearview

clearview-malbec

Our time riding was short due to a lunch date at the famous Clearview Estate vineyard café. It was packed. We settled in, ordered our starters and our mains, before heading to the tasting room. We tried their large range of wines, and listened to a very funny and engaged hostess shared information and gags in equal measure. I was even treated to a taste of their $150 Basket Press red blend. For lunch I had to have a glass of their Semillon (quite rare to see a NZ version for sale by the glass), and then their Malbec to go with my steak. Both were yum.

I am so privileged.

What’s in the glass tonight November 13th – Sauvignon Blanc


te-mata-cape-crest-2011

From the Cellar: Te Mata Estate Cape Crest Sauvignon Blanc Hawkes Bay 2011 – $$$

Pale greenish gold. 13.5% alc.

This is consistently one of NZ’s finest wines, for the past half-dozen vintages at least. It is hard to approach tasting this wine dispassionately…

Sweet on the nose, aromatic and complex, with tropical notes of apples, gooseberries and ginger.

Flavours of ginger on the palate, apples and citrus. An excellent lightness of touch, a Hawkes Bay savvy that is softening agreeably, with oak complexity. Lots of fruit. Really splendid.

95 points

What’s in the glass tonight September 14th – Viognier


te-mata-estate-zara-2014

From the Cellar: Te Mata Zara Viognier Hawkes Bay 2014 – $$$

Purchased a year ago at an industry tasting. Not kept for very long cos L wanted a Viognier, and I had maybe two bottles in the Pool Room…it is not a wine I collect. Call it fashion, call it my own taste…

Brilliant medium gold colour. 14% alc.

A smoky and spicy and dense bouquet, with ripe enveloping apple scents.

Rich flavours on attack. Ripe, sinewy also, with a silky texture on the mid-palate. Flavours of cooked apples and figs. Oily and mouthcoating. A long hot and spicy finish, with white pepper and cashews. This was good.

89 points

Straight to the Pool Room – August 2016


Pool Room Aug 2016

More whites – a sister for the Savvy I bought last month, and a brace of Chardonnays that were highly regarded by the tasting panel at Dish Magazine earlier this year…

Te Mata Cape Crest Sauvignon Blanc Hawkes Bay 2014 – $$$ – Drink 2019-2024.

Spy Valley Chardonnay Marlborough 2014 – $$ – Drink 2018-2020.

 

Straight to the Pool Room – July 2016


Pool Room July 2016

A trois of aromatics this month:

Craggy Range Aroha Pinot Noir Martinborough 2014 – $$$+ – Drink 2019-2024. Tasted at an instore presentation, and highly rated – worth the splurge.

Te Mata Cape Crest Sauvignon Blanc Hawkes Bay 2014 – $$$ – Drink 2019-2024. A long-standing favourite of mine, & rated by GK at 18.5pts.

Felton Road Bannockburn Riesling Central Otago 2015 – $$$ – Drink 2025. A second bottle secured for the Long Haul.

All bottles stored under the careful watch of cellarmouser Mimi. Don’t give me that look, puss….

What’s in the glass tonight July 21st – Syrah


Te Mata Estate Syrah 2015

Te Mata Estate Syrah Hawkes Bay 2015 – $$

Another Syrah! I’m on a roll.

This is the Estate model, a bit of a step down from the Bullnose Rhone-ster. This will be a young wine, fresh off the boat, so I would expect a tannic edge, and a touch of metallic flint…

…and no surprise. Dark garnet. The florality is lifted by 2% Viognier in the blend. 13% alc.

Soft red cherries and underripe blackberries on the nose, not too lifted or exemplary, a bit green. Tannic and lean to taste, there is some fruit there, and needs vigorous decanting to show its best side. It doesn’t grow in the glass, and for me, is not as accomplished as earlier vintages were.

86 points.

Straight to the Pool Room – April 2016


Pool Room April 2016

This Chardonnay was well reviewed by a local commentator, so I wanted to get a bottle for the Pool Room. My local had run out of the full ones, but they managed to find a couple of 375ml half bottles out the back! The smaller formats should age a little quicker than usual.

Te Mata Elston Chardonnay Hawkes Bay 2014 375ml – $$$ – Drink 2018-2022.

I am pretty keen to collect a couple of bottles of their 2014 Cape Crest Sauvignon Blanc as well. It is also looking pretty good.