Wow, this year has gone quickly. I found myself once again upstairs in the Regional Wines tasting room blind-evaluating current vintage NZ Pinots for their ‘cellarability’ at the annual Pinot Noir Worth Cellaring tasting hosted by Geoff Kelly and Richard Sherriff.
There was some talk about Pinots losing some of their appeal, as the previous nights tasting of sub-$37.50 Pinot Noirs had to be cancelled due to extreme lack of interest. I knew I wasn’t keen, and I wasn’t alone. The previous year’s events have been a reliable sell-out, but this tasting showed a few empty chairs.
We wondered why this was. Fashion has to be a factor – Rhones, Syrahs, and other red varieties are all gaining favour, and there are more import choices available to the wine-types who frequent these tastings. Also, there is a glut of very same-y, simple NZ Pinots, which closely resemble cordials that express red fruit characters rather than nuance and fine fragrance. The price point has a lot to do with this. I have to spend in the mid-$30s and above to get a good NZ Pinot Noir; the really good ones start in the mid-$60s; and up to $90+ for the rock stars. So I’m not going to be pulling the cork from those bottles all that often. So I buy the cheaper ones, and am left disappointed, or I buy by the glass, and am even more disappointed (with the exception of, say, Johner, or Roaring Meg, to be fair). So when it comes to a tasting like this, it is hard to summon the enthusiasm…
The line-up was as follows:
2014 Akarua Pinot Noir Bannockburn Central Otago $40
2014 Craggy Range Aroha Pinot Noir Martinborough $122
2013 Dog Point Pinot Noir Marlborough $44
2014 Escarpment Kiwa Pinot Noir Martinborough $67
2014 Fromm Clayvin Pinot Noir Marlborough $82
2014 Greystone Thomas Brothers Pinot Noir Waipara $97
2014 Mt Difficulty Pinot Noir Bannockburn Central Otago $43
2014 Maude Pinot Noir Reserve Wanaka Central Otago $49
2013 Neudorf Pinot Noir Moutere $63
2013 Peregrine Pinot Noir Bendigo Central Otago $39
2014 Shubert Pinot Noir Marion’s Vineyard Waiparapa $53
2014 Two Paddocks Pinot Noir Proprietor’s Reserve The Fusillier Bannockburn Central Otago $70
So on to these wines, and to be frank, I thought half were very average. To my palate they lacked enough ripeness, extract and showed too much green stalk. You have to have some leaf to express the floral characters that makes a good Pinot Noir so appealing, but there has to be fruit weight and flavour behind it giving the wine the oomph it needs. For this money they have to taste great.
I am only going to write up the wines I liked here, cos it’s late and I don’t feel like wading through my notes to write up what disappointed me. Everyone has their bad days…
2014 Akarua Pinot Noir Bannockburn Central Otago – Pinot ruby, 14.3% alc – Fragrant, light red cherries, slightly green on bouquet. Bright fruit to taste, fresh acid, good weight and ripeness. Appealing. A good ‘sighter’ wine for the flight. 91 points
2013 Neudorf Pinot Noir Moutere – Deep Pinot ruby, 14% alc – Intense darker fruits than the Akarua, compact. It appeared Burgundian, and showed softness on standing in the glass. Intense flavours of dark cherries, long, with heat on the back palate. Light and spritely also, and piquant. 92 points
2014 Greystone Thomas Brothers Pinot Noir Waipara– Deep Pinot ruby, 13.5% alc – Big and fragrant. It seemed attractively raspy and spicy on the nose, with notes of deep pink English roses. Flavoursome red cherries, generous and gorgeous fruit weight. Chewy. 91 points.
2014 Shubert Pinot Noir Marion’s Vineyard Waiparapa – Pinot ruby, 14.5% alc – Peppery and bold, impressive wonderfully floral character. I thought Burgundian, someone else said similar to Cotê de Beaune. Great weight of fruit in the mouth. Peppery and intense, complex lithe and spritely, with a tough, taut core. 93 points
2013 Dog Point Pinot Noir Marlborough – Deep Pinot ruby, 14% alc – Perfumed and floral, with slight leaf notes. Delicate, very fine bouquet. Good attack, quite sweet. Gracious, light and somewhat ethereal to taste, darker fruit flavours, balanced, and savoury. Quite long. 91 points.
2014 Escarpment Kiwa Pinot Noir Martinborough – Pinot ruby, 13% – Peppery and elegant nose with dark fruits. There was florality, depth and perfect ripeness. All of the that showed on the palate, with good acid and a fantastically expressive mouthfeel. Intense, long and finishes firm. This needs time. 92 points.
I was disappointed with how the Aroha, Peregrine, Maude, Fromm and Mt Difficulty wines looked here. They should have been the rock stars. Maybe I am jaded, but they didn’t look good on the night. Was it the vintage? Hard to say – these wines were from three of NZ’s main growing areas, and I have the Aroha and Maude in my cellar already.
Bah. Who knows. Better times next year perhaps…