Happy holidays to you all. Eat well, drink good wine, and be merry with friends and family!
I got paid, and Santa came early, so these Christmas presents to myself will be finding a place under the tree in my cellar:
Church Road Chardonnay Hawkes Bay 2013 – $$ – drink 2017-2018. A wine critic that I admire stated this is the best CR standard Chardonnay he has seen. I’ve been drinking a lot of it already this year and agree. Very elegant. Put it down to the great 2013 vintage. And put it down I will!
Esk Vallet Merlot Cabernet Malbec Gimblett Gravels HB 2013 – $$ – drink 2018-2021. This wine scored the category trophy for Merlot Cabernet blends at the prestigious Air New Zealand Wine Awards 2014. The wine has also received media attention from other wine reviewers I follow. I have been keeping an eye out for discounts, and saw these bottles on special at my local supermarket for Christmas, so into the cellar they go!
i append the report of the Chairman of Judges of the Awards. Interesting reading:
AIR NEW ZEALAND WINE AWARDS 2014
Chair of Judges Report
This year we have achieved more than 98% of entries that were both grown and made sustainably. This is important because sustainability means delivering excellent wine to consumers in a way that enables the natural environment, the businesses and the communities involved, to thrive.
The Awards attracted a total 1551 entries, which is 12% up on the 2013 competition. 7% of entries were awarded Gold medals, and 48% of all entries received awards.
I stated last year that 2013 was a very good grapegrowing season across the country, and very clearly the effects of this vintage continue to be seen in this year’s results, particularly with the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines. 2014 had some challenges in many regions, but the quality of the best wines is still as good as ever, showing the signs of well managed vineyards and good winemaking.
Sauvignon Blanc wines from 2014 have some excellent examples, with the best showing complexity of fruit characters and an absence of green flavours. The 2013 vintage wines still shine with another year of bottle age, retaining the weight, texture, length and balance that marked them from the beginning. Once again, the best examples show a balance between very ripe and slightly edgy mineral characters which give these wines both depth and vibrancy.
Chardonnay is very strong indeed, particularly from 2013, but the success of some older vintage wines certainly shows the ageing capability of this superior grape variety. Among the best wines are a wide range of styles and regions, and show what can be achieved with Chardonnay when the grapes are ripened correctly for the region concerned, and the use of oak is carefully balanced with the other components of the wine.
Pinot Gris has enjoyed a significant lift in quality compared to previous years, and is clearly a variety on the rise in New Zealand. The best wines have rich, luscious characters that do not rely solely on sugar to give texture and length.
In the dry styles the best Riesling wines show elegance and purity with beautiful aromatic, minerality and flavour persistence. The medium wines were generally outstanding with great fruit aromas, flavours and acidity balanced carefully by sugar sweetness.
Gewürztraminer was a variable class with some great pungent fruit aromas and palate richness among the best wines, but with too many examples lacking in fruit weight and texture.
It was very encouraging to see such good examples of Albariño, Arneis and Grüner Veltliner in the other white varieties section as the number of wines exhibited has risen and the competition has become keener.
The Sparkling Wine category had a very large number of entries, and the standard was very high. The Gold Medal wines show the complexity and finesse that is required for recognition at this level.
Pinot Noir is once more the most successful varietal class in the competition with 27 Gold Medals. This is an outstanding group of red wines, particularly from the 2013 vintage but also in the more aged categories. There is diversity of style ranging from strongly coloured, robust wines with richness and tannin, through to more fresh, elegant and silky wines. The best wines exhibit layered complexity and palate length, always with tannin and acid in harmony with the fruit and oak characteristics.
With the class of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon and their Blends, the 2013 vintage is certainly showing its quality. The Cabernet Sauvignon component seems to shine through in particular with ripe cassis fruit, rich tannins and flavour complexity, but also with the Merlot and Malbec having a significant impact on the blends.
Syrah provided a quality class of wine displaying a diversity of styles from fresh, vibrant peppery and herbal to full-bodied rich and ripe black fruit styles with significant oak impact and earthy tannins.
It should be noted that the judges are now being much more critical of oak characters that are too dominant and out of balance with the other components of the wine.
The Sweet White Wine class this year was wonderful, with a number of varieties showing beautifully ripe concentrated fruit characters, often augmented with botrytis cinerea noble rot, and made into a diverse range of styles.
The prestigious reputation of the Air New Zealand Wine Awards is particularly due to the quality of the judging panels. We have a very high standard of local judges with a great deal of both local and overseas judging experience. The associate judges are also of a very high standard, and make an important contribution to the judging process, particularly at discussion time.
From the Cellar: Villa Maria Cellar Selection Chardonnay Marlborough 2010 – $$
I’m giving the ‘O’ series Reidel Chardonnay glasses their first serious workout…
Golden colour in the glass. 13.5% alcohol.
Elegant, refined bouquet. Golden stonefruits, restrained sense of oak, vanilla, mealy aromas and summer hay, signalling a complexity of tastes to follow…
In the mouth, biscuity and rich fruit, balanced acidity and oak. Lively on attack, and creamy and taut on the mid palate with complex multiple further layers of flavour behind. It has the body to hold up and exploit a little age, and shows not a hint of oxidation. An exemplary wine, superb.
I am so glad when a bottle goes through my cellar and comes out tasting like this! Outstanding 5
Mini-tour of Martinborough Wines
L and I were pleased to attend the 50th birthday celebration of G, a good and generous friend of mine, and fellow cyclist, at the weekend just gone. He held it on a cool afternoon in the lovely environs of a Martinborough vineyard belonging to Nga Waka. Our kids were there, as were his, and they all had a great time running up and down the vines. The company was great, and he hired a fantastic singer/guitarist who knew all the songs, and played for hours!
We were treated to sumptuous food (whole pig on a spit! my fav cheesecake!), along with a broad selection of local wines. G knows and likes his wine…
Over the course of a long day’s party, I got to taste the Ata Rangi Petrie Chardonnay (elegant, restrained), both Nga Waka and Three Paddles (the second label) Pinot Noirs (involving floral notes on the nose), Nga Waka Sauvignon Blanc (lovely, but alas Roger Parkinson has pulled out his vines to plant more PN), Margrain Pinot Gris, Palliser Riesling 2012 (stunning) and a rich Hawkes Bay Bordeaux blend which name escapes me. What a treat!
Off Topic: Mouton Cadet Bordeaux 2011 – $$
I have never seen this wine for sale here before, at least not where I shop. A historical wine created by Baron Philippe de Rothschild in the 1930s, I understand it is produced by the brimming lake-full as a second second wine blend from grapes sourced from all over Bordeaux – from the limestone soils of the Entre-Deux-Mers and Côtes de Bordeaux to the clay soils around Blaye and the gravels of Côtes de Bourg.
It was an odd coincidence but I had just read the Baroness Phillipine’s obit in the latest Decanter, so when I saw this bottle in Central City Wines I thought I had better give it a try. For the record, I am very unlikely to ever spare the readies to try any other wine that bears the Baroness Philippine’s signature…
A deep ruby colour. 13.5%. Euro aroma of fruit and savoury notes, spice and oak.
Quite strong acidity, ok fruit – mostly blackcurrants. Not a big wine. Simplicity concealed by assertive tannins. Would like to see this in a couple of years to see if the wine balances out, but will settle for re-corking the bottle and leaving it a couple of days instead. Will continue this later…
…which I did. The wine didn’t improve any. Fell over more like. Not much depth. Semi vege. Shows at that bargain price the Baroness is not giving anything away. The gushing hype on the website is overrated. I can find better wine elsewhere for less.
Mount Dottrel Pinot Noir Central Otago 2010 – $$$
Mount Dottrel’s 42 hectares of vineyard lies at Parkburn, 10km north of Cromwell in Central Otago, positioned on the flats at the base of the Pisa Range, and overlooking Lake Dunstan. The vineyard is situated on glacial schist – low-fertility, alluvial soils typical of the Cromwell Basin. The consulting viticulturists have a link to Mt Difficulty.
This wine exhibits a ruby colour. 14%. Pleasant herby nose, some rough-sawn boxwood and spice.
The initial attack shows a warm fruity balanced wine. Grippy tannins come through on the mid-palate with ripe red cherries and plums to finish. Medium-bodied. Medium ambition, but delivers the producer’s intentions to be an honest, unpretentious pinot. Better than good. BTG 3+